Set both of the ski shock springs to their softest settings.
Make sure the sled is sitting flat on the ground, and not on an incline or any moving devices. I.e. dollies, rollers, blocks, etc.
Lift the front of the sled until the skis are slightly off the ground.Have someone measure the height just as the skis touch the ground.You can now set the sled back down.Don’t drop it or push down on it.
See how much it sets-in, or how far the front end goes down.Measure this new distance and subtract it from the other measurement.This is your set-in for your front end.
If you want a plusher ride, set the set-in to about 2” to 2.5”.
If you want a firmer ride and better handling, set the set-in to about 1” to 1.5”
You will adjust the spring pressure to get your desired set-in.
Setting the center spring
The best way to adjust the center spring tension is to have the rear of the sled securely supported off the ground.Use a safe way to support the rear of the sled off the ground.
With all the tension off the rear skid, loosen the center shock spring all the way.Then tighten it back up to where there is no free play in the spring retainer and adjuster.
This will be your softest setting for the center spring.
Setting the limiter strap
Remove the stand you using for the spring adjustment.Now lift the rear of the skid completely off the ground.
Have someone by to assist with the next step.
Set the rear of the skid back down on the ground slowly. Have a helper check to see if the skid hits the ground flat.That meaning, the front or rear of the skid does not hit before the other end.It should hit the ground flat.
Adjust the limiter strap up or down until it hits flat.This is a true neutral position.
The best way to adjust the limiter strap is to get a 2”X4” and lift the rear of the sled off the ground.Put the 2”X4” right under the center shock and sit the sled back down.This will release all the tension on the limiter strap and allow you to make adjustments easily.
Setting initial Rear shock/spring set-in
Some sleds will ‘settle’ a little more than others.To give an example: My trail sled with an 827BB kit will return to full upright lock when you get off the sled.
My wife’s 550 fanner with stay ‘settled’ about 2” when you sit on it and then get off.
Both sleds are set-up properly, yet one does not return fully, the other does.Both sets of shocks have been rebuilt.
My wife’s sled is set up for a smooth ride with a 130lb rider (with full gear) and not a very aggressive rider.
My sled is set up for a 250lb rider (with full gear) who rides aggressively and does some jumping.
To start, lift the back of the sled until will not rise any more.Take this measurement.
Now let the sled go back down by itself.When it settles, take that measurement.
If you want a firmer ride, you can set the set-in on the rear torsions to 0” to 1” when you let go of the rear bumper.Measure from a consistent spot on the rear bumper.
If you want a softer ride, you can have this settle amount of 1”- 2”.
Now you can sit on the sled and take another measurement.For a softer ride, it should settle-in with rider to about 3” to a maximum of 4”.Do not settle in more than 4”.
Increase the rear torsion spring pressures until the desired set-in is obtained with the rider on the sled.
Fine tuning from initial settings
If you want more steering ‘bite’ you can increase the front ski shock springs to a firmer setting.
Please be aware that the firmer the settings are, the harsher the ride will be.You will obtain better cornering, but the ride quality will suffer.You will feel a lot of the bumps through the handlebars, and the effort may be increased to turn the sled.
If you have too little ski pressure, then the sled will want to ‘push’ through the corners.That means when you turn the bars, the sled will still want to go straight.
The center shock is the pivot point of the suspension system.You can look at it as the pivot of a teeder-todder.
If you have too much spring pressure, the ride will be harsh.You will feel it through your feet in the chassis.
The sled will also feel as though it is rocking back and forth when you give it gas, and attempt to brake.
You will have a lot of ski lift when accelerating, and a lot of ski pressure when braking or deceleration.
Rear Torsion springs
I am not a big proponent of “wheelies”,‘skilies” or “cat-walking” so I won’t give information on how to manipulate a sled to do them.
Rear torsion springs should be set to the above set-in recommendations.If the springs are set too stiff, you will feel like the sled is kicking-back when hitting bumps.
Too soft, and you will be bottoming out all the time, even on small bumps.
You should bottom out the suspension on really hard hits, or hard landings.If you never bottom out your shock, you are not using the full range of the shocks.Manufacturers put bumpers on the skid, shocks and other contact areas for that very reason.
If you have any questions on suspension set-ups, or if you want to know about adjusting the rear ‘blocks’ give me a call at 319-540-2775, or email me at Maize583@yahoo.com.
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